Rediscovering The Charm: Buffalo and Lake Ontario Through The Lens of Frank Lloyd Wright

One might think the allure of a true traveller lies in navigating the well-known contours of familiar destinations. On the contrary, I'd say the real charm emerges when one strays from the beaten path, uncovering hidden treasures, even in the most unlikely of places. Take for instance Buffalo, a city that may not be regularly featured on most people's travel bucket lists. Ironically, it is this uncrowned American diamond, tucked just south of Niagara Falls and across the border from Fort Erie, that opened my eyes to a world of exciting culture, architectural brilliance, and tranquil serenity.

Recently, I teamed up with Shauna, a fellow architecture enthusiast, to unravel the intriguing essence of Buffalo. Our exciting expedition kicked off bright and early, crossing the Fort Erie border to embark on a two-hour road trip.

As we slipped into the city's borders, a fortuitous wrong turn took us away from downtown, offering a firsthand glimpse of Buffalo's waterfront, a symphony of rustic marinas and vintage industrial buildings. Upon the city's resilient embrace, our next stop was the Hampton Inn & Suites Hotel for local insight and handy tourist maps. Much to our delight, an extremely gracious front desk representative handed us printouts of directions to Buffalo's architectural hallmarks: Frank Lloyd Wright’s Martin House and Graycliff Mansion.

Once we anchored our vehicle on Delaware Avenue around 10:30 am, the stillness of the city engulfed us, with barely a pedestrian in sight. Our journey commenced at Niagara Square, taking us through the heart of the city. Our first encounter was with the magnificent Buffalo City Hall, an imposing Art Deco skyscraper adorned with orange sandstone, sublime detailing, and vibrant ornamentation, a pure spectacle of the city's artistic prowess.

Next on our list was the Guaranty Building, an architectural marvel by Louis Sullivan. The revered red hue and meticulously detailed ornamentation kept us spellbound. As we kept weaving our path through the city, we stumbled upon the Elicott Square Building, an architectural masterpiece by famed architect Daniel Burnham. The interior design bears striking similarities to the iconic "Rookery" in Chicago, yet another significant Burnham masterpiece.

From there, we traced our steps towards the Lafayette Hotel, a stunning red brick and white terra cotta French Renaissance-style building that added a French flair to our journey. We also stopped by the General Electric Tower, a beautiful structure clad in white terracotta dating back to 1912.

The spellbinding Buffalo Savings Bank was a next ideal stop. However, tucked beside the Electric Tower, its gold-leafed dome highlighted Buffalo's golden age at the turn of the 19th century. The Genesee Building, now the Hyatt Regency Hotel, was another architectural wonder that marked our way back to the car.

Yet, amidst the grandeur of buildings, there was a noticeable lack of hustle and bustle. The modern buildings carried an austere front, their penitentiary-like structures coupled with the lack of street-level storefronts and passersby gave downtown Buffalo an eerily deserted atmosphere. Nevertheless, the effort to beautify the downtown core was evident in the classically styled street lamps adorned with blooming flower planters.

As we navigated back to our car parked near the Statler Hotel, we found ourselves in the middle of an unplanned interaction with a local security guard. Through his insights on Buffalo's economic trials, it dawned on us how these issues had led to a more suburban-oriented lifestyle for the locals, leaving the city's heart deserted, especially during weekends.

The tranquillity of Buffalo's streets, however, juxtaposed beautifully with the architectural regalia it boasted. We set out for the next leg of our journey to Frank Lloyd Wright's Martin House. The 15,000 square foot Prairie Style home, designed by Wright for high-ranking Larkin Soap Company executive, Darwin Martin, was a testament to Wright's mastery of design. Highlighting his skillful use of cruciform plans, piers, and cantilevers, the house was a silent homage to Wright's genius. Despite its recent state of neglect, painstaking efforts are ongoing to restore the Martin House to its original glory.

Our enthralling exploration of Buffalo's architectural treasures eventually led us to Lake Ontario's serenity. As we made our way through Niagara Falls, NY, the picturesque drive along the Niagara River to Fort Niagara State Park was an enchanted affair, lined with elegant homes, dense trees, well-maintained properties, and the warm hospitality of the local residents.

Once back in Canada, we wandered the charming streets of Niagara-On-The-Lake, a quaint village bustling with Victorian splendour, beautiful flower baskets, and unique souvenir shops. The village, home to the renowned Shaw Festival, is a favourite weekend getaway for many Ontarians. Finally, our journey ended with a visit to St. Catharine's Port Dalhousie waterfront, where we savoured fresh fruits and enjoyed the calming late-afternoon waterfront amidst a lively, almost Californian-like atmosphere.

Journeying far from the well-trodden path, our girls-only escapade to Buffalo and the Niagara Peninsula not only redefined architectural inspiration but also unraveled a serene charm that lies hidden, waiting to be discovered. So, the next time wanderlust calls, heed the call of the unlikely yet enthralling – Buffalo.